Itch to Stitch released three new patterns end of November, and I was happy enough to test them all. The first one I want to show you is the Liana Stretch Jeans pattern. This is a real winner. I wear my version nearly every day!
This season is just not the best for taking pictures….
I used a stretch corduroy fabric from my stash. It has a bit more than the recommended 25% stretch. For topstitching I used Gütermann topstitching thread (Zierstichgarn). The fabric tended to stretch out when I topstitched so I always made sure to press it back to its original shape afterwards.
I started with a size 4. However, it felt a bit tight so I added 1cm to the side seams as well as to the inseam. In the end, I am not sure if this would have been necessary as the fabric stretches when wearing. But I am not used to the skin tight fit (which is what the Liana Jeans are designed for) and feel more comfortable with a bit of ease. I scooped out the front and back crotch a little bit. Next time I would lengthen the legs a few cm and maybe tweak the waist band a bit. There is no real gaping in the back but it feels a bit like that when I am sitting down. I also could take out a bit of fabric below the seat to reduce some wrinkles. And there is still too much fabric at the front crotch.
The instructions from Kennis are detailed as always with tips for topstitching and distressing your fabric. I followed the instructions step by step, not only because I was testing the pattern. This was the first time that I sewed a pair of jeans so I was happy to have someone hold my hand.
As with the Angelia shorts the zipper went in smoothly. Kennis has you put twill tape to the top of the waist band to prevent it from stretching out. This is really such a helpful technique.
With all the topstitching the construction takes time. I always had to change the thread in my machine. If you are lucky and own two sewing machines, it would save a lot of time if you set up one machine for topstitching and the other one for construction.
I tried to get creative with the back pocket topstitching:
From the right side I like the result. From the wrong side it does not always look neat. I especially had problems with the belt loops. The thread often made a real mess. Any tips how to avoid this?
Also my front button hole did not come out as it should. The thread bars were too narrow and I cut the thread when I tried to cut it open. My machine had problems as the center of the waistband is hollow and the fabric is moving up and down while stitching. I have this problem also when sewing the buttonholes in sleeve cuffs. Next time I will try to insert a piece of fabric so that the place where the buttonhole will be is even with the edges.
What I learned:
- use a good quality thread
- you will need more thread than you think, so buy two spools
- increase your stitch length (I used 3.5 on my Pfaff)
- loosen your thread tension (for me the best was just below 4)
- always make a stitch sample
- note your setting, you will forget them when you can not work on your project continuously
I am just happy with this project. I always get a lot of compliments when wearing this pair of jeans. I love the fit (and this is the first time I say this about pants!!). Due to the stretch fabric the pants are very comfortable to wear. This will definitively not be my last make of this pattern.
Have you sewn your own pair of jeans already?