Cloth Habit Ladyshorts

For years I have tried to sew underwear but always without success. I have used different patterns and tried to copy RTW underwear. Often the fit was not as I expected and they all looked ugly as I, of course, used knit scraps for my attempts. This was my biggest mistake, as the fabric I used was in most cases just not the right one.

After discovering “Cloth Habit” everything has changed. I have read through the blog for a few weeks now and learned so much about lingerie sewing and the different fabrics and how to sew on the elastics. Amy explains on her blog how to take into account the stretch factor of fabric and, most importantly, on her patterns is indicated what kind of fabric they are designed for.

I decided to try the “Ladyshorts“, the free pattern from Cloth Habit. I made a muslin first with a fabric that did have the 60-70% stretch as needed. It did look ugly. But I looked beyond the ugliness and found that the fit was good. So I ordered some nice lace and different trims and sewed four different Ladyshorts.

2015-02-01-Ladyshorts

I am so happy with the result. They do not only fit well, they also look nice.

The only issue I have with the pattern is the crotch lining. Next time I will make it wider so that it is the same width as the front piece. I am not sure how to sew the overlap of the lace trim. The first version is sewn as the pattern instruction tell you: first make a circle with the trim and then sew it on to the shorts.

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I found the seam a bit bulky and for the other versions I did not close the trim before. However, the overlap is not as neat as I wished it to be.

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Maybe the better method is as the instructions tells you and probaby I just need some more practice to get it right. Next time I will pay more attention to match the scallops of the lace.

The instructions also explain what to do when your fabric has less or more stretch than the 60-70% the pattern is designed for. This is one of the lessons I learned: always find out the percent of the fabric’s stretch. This will influence the fit considerably.

The great thing about sewing lingerie is that the pieces are small and you do not need much time. AND you can search for all those nice laces and other stuff…You will definetively see more lingerie on this blog in the future!

Posted in Cloth Habit, lingerie | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Itch to Stitch: Idyllwild Top & Dress

This is my first make of 2015. I already finished it a few weeks ago, but did not get around to taking pictures. It is so difficult in this season of the year to take good pictures. So please excuse the heavily photoshopped and dress form images.

The pattern is from Itch To Stitch and I was one of the pattern testers. It comes with different options for neckline, sleeves and lenght. I made one version with cap-sleeves and one version with ruched long sleeves and ruched T-shirt length.

2015_01_25_IWT_capsleeves

2015-01-25-IWT-front

2015-01-25-IWT-sideview

Fabric:

I used lightweight knits for both T-shirts. The blue one is viscose, the other one with the nondescript color (it was described as taupe on the website where I ordered it) is a bamboo knit. Except for the color I love it very much. It is the first time that I have used bamboo knit and it is incredible soft and feels very comfortable on the skin. It was a bit slippery while sewing, though.

Alterations:

I cut a size XS according to the measurements chart (which also comes in cm and not only inches!). My bust size is somewhat smaller, but usually I can neglect this fact with knit garments. The only fitting alteration I needed to do was lengthening the shoulder line. I added 1 cm for the blue version, but the sleeves were still pulled up a bit. For the long sleeved version I added 2cm and this is the right shoulder width for me now. With the new shoulder point I had to draw a new line for the armscye. I did not change the sleevecap. I assumed that the knit would be forgiving enough and still fit into the new armhole. the dashed line in the picture below is the original cutting line.

2015-05-25-IWT_pattern_alteration

For the long sleeved shirt I made the neckband wider. I also had to shorten the band by 1cm. I am not sure if this was because of the stretchiness of the fabric or because the band was wider now.

Construction Notes:

As this were simple T-shirts there is not much to say about the construction. Kennis provides detailed instructions with drawings, so that you will have no problems to sew this together even when this is your first T-shirt ever. I serged nearly all seams. For the neckline I sewed in the band with my sewing machine, folded the seam allowance to the inside and finished with the cover stitch of my serger. I am still not able to use my serger for sewing in a circle…All hems are just folded under and stitched in place with the cover stitch.

2015-01-25-IWT-neckline

I was quite curious how a cap sleeve is sewn: the whole sleeve is doubled with the hem as foldline. Then the sleeve is sewn to the top of the armscye. The seam allowance of the lower part of the armscye is folded to the inside and stitched in place. It is a bit fiddly if you do it the first time. I also sewed in some clear elastic to the lower seam allowance to prevent gaping.

Conclusion:

I really love the fit of this T-shirt: it is fitted but not too tight. For those who do not want to draft their own variations I think it is a nice idea to have many different options inluded in one pattern. In addition to this, Kennis is selling this pattern for only 1$ and all proceeds will be donated to Salvandos Corazones who care for child survivors of commercial exploitation.

Disclaimer: I got the test pattern for free with no strings/review requests attached. 

Side Note: I now have also a faceook page which you might already have noticed from the little icon on my side bar! I am quite new to facebook and still learning how it all works but it might be quite useful if I want to post something that is not worth a whole blog post.

 

Posted in Itch to Stitch, pattern tester, Top | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

2014 in Review and Plans for 2015

I was unsure if I should write a review of my sewing year. 2014 was not the best one for me personally. But after reading so many of those posts in the last days I decided that it might help me to analyse my sewing and maybe get a bit of structure to my sewing plans for 2015. So, this was my sewing year 2014:

I sewed 21 garments, and I blogged about most of them. My absolute favorites that I wear again and again are:

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2014-06-15-singe dress front

2014-09-10-KS-3555-front

2014-11-06-Aline-front1

2014-09-10-MC-6796-front

2014_09_01_casual_1

  • The camisoles are really a basic and I wear them every day during the colder season, that is 6 months of the year.
  • I wore the Singe Summer Dress nearly every day at home during the unusual long and warm summer.
  • Shirt, skirt and pullover are in regular turn worn at the office.
  • T-shirt and pants are worn nearly every day in the evening at home.

All these garments have in common that I need them in my every day life, fabric and pattern were a good match (that is something I still struggle with…) and they fit, are just comfy and loved. I think I will add the Style Arc blouse to the list above, but I did not yet had the possibility to wear it (it is just too cold).

The other garments I made were either complete failures, like my pants, the fabric choice was not good or I just simply forgot that I have those new garments! Does that ever happen to you?

So, what are my plans for 2015? Considering what I learned from my analysis, I will try to focus on fit, the correct fabric choice and consider how the garment will fit in my life. I also want to finish some unfinished projects like the Marfy jacket (I did not forget it, how could I, it looks accusingly at me every day from the dress form). I want to sew more dresses, reduce my fabric stash, sew some projects that I have in mind for years, start bra making, sew some pants that really fit, improve my blog writing, make better pictures, build my wardrobe so that everything fits together, include more couture techniques….And I have decided to participate this year in the RTW fast, as you can see in my sidebar. However this should not be too difficult. Last year, besides underwear and socks, I only purchased two cardigans.

And I have no idea how to achieve all this or how to get some structure into my plans. Maybe first I should try to reduce the list and focus on what is the most important for me.

Or just start sewing.

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Style Arc Sissy Blouse

Finally I have finished my Style Arc Sissy Bouse. While working on it I got the feeling that it would never be finished. I got sidetracked by the Sewing Bee contest at Pattern Review (I passed the first round, but failed in the second. Honestly, I was glad I did. It was a great experience, but I love much more to sew what I like and in the time I need). But now, the blouse is finished and I love it.

2014-12-28-front1

2014-12-28-back

Here is how it looks untucked, but I think I will wear it tucked in:

2014-12-28-front3

Fabric:

The fabric is a lightweight white cotton that is semi-sheer. It has a nice striped texture which means that I did some stripe matching. Also, as the fabric is so sheer, I made sure that the two yoke pieces and the collar pieces were cut exactly the same.

Alterations:

This was my very first Style Arc pattern and I was curious how it would fit. I needed only minimal changes:

  • adding 1 cm at the hips
  • lowering the front darts by 1 cm
  • I took in 1 cm at the center back where the back joins the yoke tapering to nothing at the sides to accomodate for my swayback

There are some wrinkles at the back armscye. I do not know if this is due to how I am standing or if this needs to be fitted (I would not know how…). Nevertheless, this blouse feels very comfortable to wear. If all Style Arc patterns fit so well, this will be my new favorite pattern company.

Construction Notes:

I did a lot of hand sewing for this blouse. First of all I made a rolled hem for the ruffles. It was the first time that I made a handrolled hem and I really looked forward to try this new technique. It is time consuming but not at all difficult and the result is lovely. I was a bit afraid that the ruffles might be to prominent, but they are not.

2014-12-28-Rüschen

I tried to make the inside as clean as possible. I used french seams for the sides. The armhole is finished with a silk bias tape (I used a bias tape maker for the first time, but failed badly. I ended up pressing the tape without the tape maker). I reduced topstitiching to a minimum. Only the collar and the yoke are top stitched. The inner edges of the cuffs, collar and front tab are folded under and fell-stitched in place. I also sewed the hem by hand…I could not bring myself to sew it with the machine.

2014-12-28-Armnaht

2014-12-28-Kragen

2014-12-28-hem

I followed the Style Arc instruction for the sleeve tab. I like the shape of it, but I am not happy at all with the method. The edges of the tab are just folded under and sewn into place, the same is done for the opposite slit side. The result is that there is a weird little gap at the top of the slit. Luckily this disappears in the folds when the sleeve is buttoned up. Next time I will look for a different method.

2014-12-28-Slit2

2014-12-28-Slit1

Collar, collar band, cuffs and front tab are interfaced with silk organza. I had some light colored, but no white silk organza in my stash. As the fabric is so sheer, it looked yellowish when I layed it over the silk organza. So I went to Port of Silk in Hamburg, a store that is specialized in silks. But they also did not have white, bleached, organza. Their lightest color was however lighter than the one I had at home, so I purchased some. If you look closely you still see that there is a yellowish touch, but if you do not know you would not notice it.

Originally I had planned to use white buttons, but again, all buttons I had looked yellowish when I layed them onto the fabric.  So I used the black ones that I found in my stash.

 

Posted in blouse, Style Arc | Tagged , | 5 Comments

The Great Pattern Review Sewing Bee – A-Line skirt

I did it…I entered the Great Pattern Review Sewing Bee Contest. I must have been crazy or something because I am not a person that finishes a garment in less than a week. But sometimes you are doing things that might not be reasonable. Here is the finished skirt:

2014-11-06-Aline-front1

2014-11-06-Aline-back1

Below you can read about the process.

The Day before:

Actually I wanted to wait for the project announcment before joining the contest. But then I read that the people who had joined (more than 280 at that time) would get an email with the project description. In order to not miss anything I signed up on Friday evening.

Day 1 (Saturday):

I got up rather early. The whole night I was wodering what the first project might be. While drinking my coffee I checked the emails and there it was! Deepika had sent it already at midnight EST, great! Because of the time shift I had been afraid I would have to wait until noon or longer.

Now, the project was…an A-line skirt. It should have the following components:

  1. Zipper
  2. Lining
  3. Button/hook or any other closure
  4. Waistband
  5. Hem

An A-line skirt is not my favorite garment, but I felt confident to have this completed within the deadline. As soon as I decided to sew this up, a million thoughts started to pop up in my mind….

  • Fabric choice: This was quite easy. I had a red wool in my stash for some time I always wanted to use for a winter skirt. I took it out of my stash, was still happy with my choice and throw it into the washing machine
  • Pattern: I did not feel like browsing through my pattern stash and looking for an A-line skirt. I thought it might be easier just to change my self-drafted basic skirt block. The most part of the afternoon I spend with drafting the pattern.

2014-11-06-patterndrafting

  • Lining: I still have some Cupro in my stash that I probably will use.
  • Construction: To have only a week for completing the garment means, no time for fancy time-consuming techniques. However, it is only a skirt, so I should have the time to make an underlining with silk organza….
  • Deatils: I have some nice buttons, maybe I could use one of them. I would decide on that later
  • Waistband: The wool is rather thick and I was afraid that the waistband might get to bulky. And a plain red skirt might be too boring for a contest. Maybe I could do something with leather? I have an old winter coat that I saved because I wanted to reuse the leather….I have never sewn with leather before, maybe not a good idea to start now.

I made a muslin to test the fit of my drafting. I had to take out some width, but else was happy with it. While the fabric was drying, I cut out the silk organza and started disassembling my old coat. Quite interesting to see how it was done.

2014-11-06-old coat

The leather was interfaced, so I decided to do the same to keep it from stretching out. I removed the old interfacing and applied a new one. While working with the leather I thought about the closure. I did NOT want to make a buttonhole into the leather, so I would go for hook and eye. However, not sure how to sew that onto the leather, maybe I will do the inner waistband with the wool.

Meanwhile the wool was dry so I gave it a press, laid the silk organza on top and cut the front and back piece of the skirt. As it was already late, I wanted to baste the organza to the wool the next day. But I was too afraid about the time that I started basting. Then I basted the side seams together, just to test the fit. No changes needed, great. In between looking for a zipper in my stash. Then I sewed the first side seam and trimmed the seam allowances. After that I went to sleep at 1:30 pm (what is really late for me).

2014-11-06-underlined

Day 2 (Sunday):

Waking up early again. Before breakfast I catched stitched the seam allowance in place.

2014-11-06-side seam

Then referring to Gerties book how to do a lapped zipper and basted the first zpper tape into place. After breakfast I finished the zipper. My overlap is rather wide, but with this thick fabric I thought this might be better.

2014-11-06-zipper

Sewed the second side seam, trimmed the seam allowances and catch stitched them in place. In the afternoon I started with the waistband.I was still unsure how this would turn out. Sewing the leather was easier than expected. Luckily I had purchased some leather needles for my sewing machine a few weeks ago. As the leather is rather thin, it was no problem sewing it. I pinned the waistband in place and stitched. I was really happy with the result. For the inner waistband I used a linen, interfaced with muslin. I stitched both layers together and then attached them to the outer waitsband. I folded the inner edge under and topstitched around the whole band.

2014-11-06-before waistband

At that time I had some problems with my stomach. I think it is because I put myself under such pressure and always was afraid that I would not finish the skirt in time. Trying to relax a bit I spent the rest of the evening on the sofa, knitting my cardigan and went to bed early. Not sure if I would stand that pressure for 4 weeks….

Tasks left to do:

  • cutting leather for the band at the hem
  • hemming
  • cutting and sewing the lining
  • inserting the lining
  • attaching the closure (still unsure about hook/eye or button)

Day 3 (Monday)

The first skirt is showing up in the contest gallery…Before going to work, I cut some more leather strips from the old coat. First thing I did in the evening was attaching the hook and eye. I thought this would be the hardest part because I had to sew through the leather for the eye, but it worked better than thought. I tried the skirt on again and decided for the lenght. Hemming was rather easy, I just turned over the edge and catch-stitched it in place. Next, I sewed the leather strips together and tried to attach them to the bottom of the skirt. However, the leather stretched out, and the sewing foot of my machine did not glide over it, but crumpled it together. I ended up taking it off again and interfacing the leather band. While sewing maybe I should also try to lay some tissue paper onto the leather.

Time for bed…

2014-11-06-chaos1

Day 4 (Tuesday)

More skirts in the contest gallery..those ladies can relax now. I am a bit jealous. Before work, I ironed my lining fabric. I decided against the Cupro and used a blue/brown striped lining. It has been in my stash forever, I do not know the content. It feels rather strong and the colour goes with the blue silk organza and blue zipper. I managed to cut the back piece before I had to leave. In the evening I sewed up the lining. Then I took up the leather band again. I carefully pinned it to the skirt at the top side first and slowly started sewing. My machine had difficulties while sewing over the seams, but she was brave and we succeded. Yeah, great relief, and it looked good! For the bottom I just folded the leather under while sewing, no pinning here. Again quite slowly, encouraging my machine….Last thing for this day was pinning the lining in place. I should be able to finish the skirt on Wednesday.

2014-11-06-inside without lining

Day 5 (Wednesday)

This day was rather relaxing as I only had to sew in the lining. I started before work and finished in the evening when I was at home again. Last thing was the label. Completed! I could not believe it. I wrote my review and we decided to take pictures the next morning, the only time with at least a bit of daylight….

2014-11-06-hem2014-11-06-inside-finished2014-11-06-Aline-closure

Day 6 (Thursday)

We took some pictures in the morning and I wore the skirt to work. The pictures were not the best, so in the evening we took some more. As I will not have time on Friday, they must suffice. Finishing the review, loading the pictures and hitting the button. Yes, I was excited…There are some really awesome skirts in the contest. Now all I can do is wait for Sunday.

2014-11-06-Aline-back2

 

 

 

Posted in Contest, skirts | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Blog Hop

Last week SarahLiz from SarahLizSewStyle nominated me for the Blog Hop. This really took me by surprise. First, I did not know SarahLiz before (check out her blog, she has really ambitious sewing goals), and secondly, I never thought that somebody would nominate me. But I am more than scared happy to accept this challenge.

Why do I write:

I have read sewing blogs for about two years when I started thinking about having my own blog. I have learned so much reading those blogs, and I wanted to be part of this amazing sewing community. I spent a few months debating with myself if I really should start this adventure. One question was in which language the blog should be. I wanted to reach many (possible) readers, but was not sure if my English is good enough. I am  was not sure if my writing would be good enough as I am not a person for many words and rather introvert. Eventually I just started. And it was much more work than I had anticipated.

With this blog I want to create my own little space in the internet. I hope that it helps me to keep track of my sewing projects and improve my skills. And if somebody may learn something I would be more than happy.

What am I working on now?

I have started with the Style Arc Sissy blouse. The fabric is a lightweight cotton. I debated with myself for a few days how to sew this, what kind of seams, marking seamlines or not…Mel from poppykettle reminded me of one of my aims in her comments of her last blogpost: “my sewing ethos-everyday clothes sewn beautifully“. I immediately cut off the seam allowances of the paper pattern and am now thread tracing. This means it will take some time until you may read the next post. But I feel much more happy with this approach.

How does my blog differ from other sewing blogs?

I haven’t thought about this. And do not try to be different. I just try to be me. I think every blog is different because of the person behind the blog. Everybody has his own personal style and that makes every blog special.

How does my writing process work?

I am still trying to find my style. Usually, when I finish a project, I clear my sewing space and start writing the blog post. Sometimes I have already taken the pictures, sometimes I take them now. After hitting the “publish” button, I remember all the things I wanted to write about and have forgotten. For my last post I have tried to establish a structure and took some notes during sewing. This worked quite well for me, so I tink I will keep this method.

And now for the fun part:

I nominate Amy from The Little Tailoress. Her posts are always eye candy for me.

And I would like to take the opportunity to let the Blog Hop hop to the German speaking blogosphere and nominate Trousse de Couture. She does not only sew beautiful garments, but also amazing historical costumes. Even if you do not understand German you should have a look at her blog.

Posted in Uncategorized | 4 Comments

Burda Style Magazine 05/2006 Blouse

2014-10-19-front2

While browsing through my patterns and magazines looking for suitable blouse patterns for my work outfit, this pattern catched my eye. It reminded me of Vogue 8747, but the gathering is at the side front, and the collar is different.

2014-10-19-front4

2014-10-19-side view

2014-10-19-back

Fabric

The fabric is a stretch cotton which has a bit of shine to the right side. It is tightly woven with stripes, rather stiff and was a pain to sew. It was difficult to get pins into it and handsewing was not relaxing but hard work…I think this is due to the stretch content.

Alterations:

I made a muslin and did the following fitting alterations:

  1. took in the side seams 1 cm at the waist
  2. reduced the width above the bust of the center front piece by 2 cm
  3. decreased the width of the center front piece by 1 cm over the whole length at the seam

I also drafted a new front facing. Burda does not include separate facing pieces, they just have a line drawn on the front piece that shows how the facing should look like.

2014-10-19-front pattern piece

Due to the gathering the center front is not straight but curved. It straightens out after gathering, but the fabric is on the bias. I could not imagine that with a facing also cut this way there would be enough stability at the center front. So I drew a new facing with a straight center line. It was a bit try and error to decide how long it should be. I think this was the right decision to keep the center front with the buttons and buttonholes stable. You see how the stripes are changing their direction at the center front:

2014-10-19-front detail

Design alterations

The original back of the Burda pattern did just not work for me. Even with the center back seam, it was too much fabric that I would have had to take out at the waist. I started thinking about adding darts and changing them into princess seams to be consistent with the front. But then I remebered Vogue 8747, a pattern that I have sewn before and I knew that the back fit me well. So I exchanged the original back with the back of the Vogue pattern. To make this work, I transferred the armhole, neckline and shoulder line from the Burda pattern to the new back pieces. As a reference point I used the center back and the shoulder line. I also adjusted the side seam so that it would match the front piece. This worked out really good and I am happy with the result. Below are the old and new back pattern pieces:

2014-10-19-back-original

2014-10-19-back new

A welcome side effect is that I could enter the blouse in the “Frankenstein Contest” at pattern review.

Construction Notes

All seams are flat felled seams, even the princess seams at the front. Due to the gathering here, they are not as neat. I always find it difficult to decide how to finish princess seams, and I wanted to avoid serged edges. I had however to serge the edge of the front facings. I thought a lot how I could finish those edges, but everything except serging seemed to add too much bulk.

The collar was quite tricky and I am not sure if I did everything correctly. I found a tutorial in a German forum with many pictures, but unfortunately for the important steps the pictures were blurred and the description rather short. If you know a good tutorial, how to attach a lapel collar to a blouse, please let me know! Here are some views from the inside of the blouse:

2014-10-19-front inside2014-10-19-back inside

Front edge, collar and cuffs are topstitched.

2014-10-19-collar

As the weather was so nice this afternoon we took the pictures in the botanical garden of Hamburg:

2014-10-19-front 1

2014-10-19-front5

Posted in blouse, Burda | Tagged , , , | 6 Comments

McCalls 6796

While waiting for some Style Arc blouse patterns I sewed McCalls 6796 pullover top. Originally I had planned for Butterick 5954 , but I did not have enough fabric for that. And I am still unsure if I really like the style. I had totally forgotten about the McCall pattern, but it seemed to be a good substitute. And I really like how it turned out.

2014-09-10-MC-6796-front

I cut a size 10 extending to 12 at the hips. The pattern is described as close-fitting, but is has a lot of ease. However, for a pullover top this is just fine. The only other alteration I made was narrowing the shoulders by 1 cm as I found them a bit too wide.

2014-09-10-MC-6796-back

2014-09-10-MC-6796-side

I was a bit confused how to attach the collar. Firt I thought the instructions were wrong, but of course, they were not. I topstitched the seam to make sure that everything stays were it should.

2014-09-10-MC6796-Kragen

 

The fabric I used is a heavy weight cotton knit (“Feinstrick”).

I like the collar and the button detail. This makes the otherwise simple top interesting. All in all easy to sew and easy to wear, this top is a real winner.

Posted in garments, McCall, Top | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Kwik Sew 3555: a Classic Tailored Shirt

After sewing knits for the last few weeks I looked forward to sewing with wovens again and made a classic shirt. I did not take pictures during the construction, I just enjoyed the process.

2014-09-10-KS-3555-front-tucked

The pattern is Kwik Sew 3555, a loose fitting shirt without darts. This is the pattern that comes with the crafty class “The classic tailored shirt” from Pam Howard. You need a little patience when following the class, as Pam is really speaking slowly (even for me as a non-native speaker), but she explains everything very detailed and has lots of little tricks to show which help to get great results. This is not the first shirt I have sewn, but it is by far the best I ever made.

2014-09-10-KS-3555-front

2014-09-10-KS-3555-back

The shirt is meant to be tucked in. It has a collar and a collar stand with a button, a breast pocket and a double yoke at the back. I could close all buttons if I liked to:

2014-09-10-KS-3555-shirt-buttoned up

2014-09-10-KS-3555-collar3

All seams are flat felled seams. The sleeves were set in flat, before the side seams were closed. This was something new for me for a woven. The shirt has a lot of topstitching and edgestitching. Some of the topstitching was done from the wrong/left side of the shirt. Unfortunately, the stitches my machine makes do not look as good from the “bobbin” side. Maybe I have to try different settings for my machine to get better results.

The seam allowances of the breast pocket are not trimmed but help to shape a perfect crisp angle:

2014-09-10-KS-3555-pocket

The same method was used on the sleeve cuffs:

2014-09-10-KS-3555-sleeve

I did have some problems with the hem at the curves, but as the shirt is tucked in, nobody will notice this:

2014-09-10-KS-3555-hem

Overall I am really happy how this shirt turned out. It is also very comfortable to wear. Maybe I will sew one or two more versions, but I usually like a more fitted style. Nevertheless, I will use all the new techniques I have learned for the next shirt.

Posted in blouse, craftsy, garments, sewing, wardrobe architect | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Anima Pants meet Stripes

I stuck to my plan and have finished my casual wardrobe so far (except for the cardigan that I am still knitting).  The pants are the Anima Pants from papercut, the T-shirt is self drafted.

Tha Anima Pants are quite popular at the moment, but as I ordered the pattern I was not aware of this.  I was reading some blogs and came across the version from Devon from Miss Make which I liked very much. It was my first papercut pattern, and I ordered the paper version as I was not in the mood of printing and taping a pdf pattern. And I am glad I did. The pattern is beautifully packed and you can cut out the instructions and make them into a little booklet.

The instructions are very clear and easy to follow. I first made some shorts as a muslin before cutting my good fabric. They turned out very nice. I cut a size S and did not make any changes.

2014-09-01-shorts-front

2014-09-01-shorts-backHowever, I did not like two things construction wise. First, the topstitching for the faux fly has to be stitched from the left side. For my next version I marked the stitching line on the right side, so I was sure it came out correctly. Secondly, I did not like the waistband finish on the inside: the lower edge is not turned under. I did this for the long version.

2014-09-01-shorts-außen

2014-09-01-shorts-innen

I am not sure if I am happy with the fit of the long version. There seems to be too much fabric at the front crotch and the legs are quite slim so that I have the feeling the whole pants are a bit unbalanced. I skipped the cuffs at the bottom, but honestly, I do not know how that would have looked like with the legs already tight fitting. The front crotch issue might be due to my body shape as I have this problem also with other pants.

2014_09_01_casual_1

2014-09-01-casual2

Some details of the waistband and and the inside (and I hate to stitch in the ditch…):

2014-09-01-front

2014-09-01-innenThe shirt is nothing special, I changed the neckline of my basic block to a boat neckline which I finished with an elastic. The combination is very comfy but I feel like wearing pyjamas….I had planned for a second striped top, but I am not sure if I want more pyjamas feeling at the moment.

It is not as easy to stick to my sewing plan as I thought. I would really love to sew a dress now and I think I will soon. But first I need some basic shirts/blouses. And I am looking forward to sewing with wovens again.

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